Why Sport is Better Than Bouldering for the Olympics

A planned present for myself - all 900 zones of climbing in Spain currently developed. 16,000 routes!!!!!

"......how much easier it is to train for bouldering comps because you only need to focus on increasing power—that’s all that really matters when you just have to jump around between slopers and pinches for 10 feet. Also, training power requires more rest, more down time, for muscular supercompensation.
.........sport climbing is more time consuming, because you need to train both power and power-endurance. The training schedule is more than twice as demanding, Brenna said."

As taken from an article on Rock&Ice magazine earlier this month, relating to the planned decision to promote Lead/Sport climbing as the candidate sport over Bouldering or Speed (more info here - it's was the Olympic Committee's decision).

Can relate that hard sports climbing takes quite a lot of time and effort (strength, as well as good fitness, required), does anyone want to give the perspective from the bouldering point of view?

Nice and controversial topic! discuss......

Worldwide climbing community stats from IFSC

Group Motivation