Improving 'The Resistance' - slowing down
Image credit: brixton50.co.ukAs part of this new emphasis on improving general suffering, sorry endurance ;), or long sustained sequences of climbing I'm putting more emphasis on climbing slower. Why? Mainly because I realized that I was basically just throwing myself at the laps sometimes and almost sprinting around them because the moves are so familiar. I'd actually forgotten this - at one point when I trained, I used to have a stopwatch set to go off every 20 or so seconds. Whatever hold you were on, no matter how good are bad it was, I had to stop and hold it until the watch beeped again 5 seconds later. Grim, but it worked!
Regarding speed, you do climb very quickly, especially when red-pointing routes and crux sections, but you also have to do things like stop to chalk up, clip quickdraws, etc. - all stuff that are easy to avoid when lapping on a board. So, to help this ever 5 holds I'm stopping if possible and almost counting to 10 to simulate stopping to clip a draw. And of course, I'm climbing slower - not snail slow but closer to what I remember was the pace on routes last week.
My first experience of it last night was much more accurate to last weeks experience, and I also noticed a side benefit in some ways: because you have to hold onto a hold for longer, the other arm gets more time to recover - exactly like what you're aiming for on routes! Game on :)