The fingerboard I've always used. The original one that lived in my parent's house for many years! Pulley system which is still in use in Sheffield :) Let me know if you want to know how I use the pulley.....

I'm wondering where to go with my training for the winter right now. I had originally said I was going to focus on campusing, with the recognition that I have puny weak shoulders (especially after watching some of the guys at the Works one night). I was of the belief that it would help me with some power problems.

But then, I met one of the guys who could comfortably static 1-4-8 just letting go on the bigger holds. I was ticking problems that he wasn't near on while in Font. So, now it's got me thinking about how useful campusing actually is? Don't get me wrong there's a basic level that is really useful, but like on a fingerboard, is none of it particularly useful unless it's on the smallest rungs? (the guy I mentioned above was doing this on the largest rungs on the campus board). Is it like fingerboarding, that hanging from the smallest rung (10-12mm) really the only place that you see gains - that all the other multitude of holds on a fingerboard are really just window dressing?

Weirdly, I've noticed that I can 1-3-5 on the smallest rungs, which is only slightly less than what I can do on the bigger ones - i.e. I can pretty much throw almost the same distance regardless of hold size. Yes, that means I can't do 1-4-7 right now......but does it really matter. At one point, I was doing 1-3-5 on two-fingers and easily up and own on monos this more useful?

as you can see there's a lot of questions to be answered above - all thoughts welcome :)


Just another visit to a new crag: Almscliff