Chee Dale revisited

Can you tell what the difference is between going sports climbing at Ceuse and at Chee Dale? All comments welcome :)
Obviously, faces have been removed from this photo to save too many jokes :)
Obviously we couldn't really stay away from rock for too long :)

We got back to my new home in Sheffield on Thursday night, chilled out on Friday and hit Chee Dale and the Cornice for Saturday, Sunday and Monday. As always, it's great just to be out on real rock! Yes, the routes are a little shorter than I'd like, and the variation in hold type is a bit restrictive (basically all routes consist of crimps :) but at least there's a crazy and brilliant amount of variation in the angles of the holds!


I found it quite amusing that tons of people complain to me that they won't go to Ceuse as it's too busy (although one additional complaint is the walk-in.....). Ironically, the Cornice area at Chee Dale was busier than any sector ever was at Ceuse this summer! And in fairness, considering the amount of muck on the walk-in I'd have to say I enjoy the Ceuse hill even more too ;)

I jumped back on Cry of Despair, a 7c that I'd tried quickly a few months ago and didn't expect very much due to moving over onto routes that are much shorter than we've been doing (and hence I should be lacking in power for). Much to my surprise, I sent it first go. Definitely not due to maximum strength - I don't know what's happened this year, but my mind and skill-set on routes seems to have progressed to a whole new level.
Naomi tried one of the 7a's and was finding it a bit of a shock, very technical and tricky movement. Still though, a couple of goes over the three days meant that she romped up it. Again, it was a learning experience for her - when she first tried it, she couldn't link a lot of the moves, now she can do laps on it. Super psyched!!!!

Personally I really seem to have transitioned to something new. I can turn up at any crag now, onsight up to 7b+ (and getting oh so close on 7c and +'s now), and send an 8a in 2-3 days. It hasn't fully come to fruition yet, I've left areas having not successfully ticked a route having come ridiculously close to sending it, but it's really getting there. A real positive for me as I seem to have gotten over some of the psychological hurdles I used to struggle with - every attempt on a route really counts and that can only be a good thing.