Ceuse 10 - meltdown!

Well that was a non-event! As always happens on a long climbing trip, energy levels slowly get degraded and it was one of those days yesterday - the walk-in felt awful and both of us were wrecked so we binned plans and headed to the tent for a bit of extra rest. It's interesting, I feel at this point now that my base level is back to normal after study last year but to start trying really hard routes (for me) that require 100% effort, I need 3-4 days off to let all muscles regenerate and then get back to routes. From trying the 8b's here, I'm physically capable of them, but arms are getting a little sore that a day off just won't fix. Still though, it'll just means I'll have to ensure form is perfect to succeed on the 8a's I'm on. The little elements that affect top performance!

Great news was an Australian friend of ours who succeeded on her long term goal, Petit Tom 8a. She'd tried it two years ago falling right at the very top, and had to spend multiple days again this year to do. The mental challenge to stick with it is pretty awe-inspiring and I've learnt a lot just from watching her.

Other news that you'll see if you read the main headlines. Adam Ondra onsighted Dures Limitees 8c and femme blanche 8a+, fell right at the top of No Futur 8c+ on the onsight, and redpointed a new 8c+.
In one day.
The top end guys are really pulling ahead of the 'normal' climbers now and it's amazing to watch!

Question, has anyone from Ireland redpointed 8c? What's the best success so far and is it inspiring others to reach their own new levels?

I'm off to eat ice-cream so have a good day :)

Neal McQuaid6 Comments