Back in the game


Well, we hit the road from Queenstown in our Crib (o.k., it's a rental campervan but they call it a Crib :) and headed up the West Coast. Amazingly the weather held out and we got sun the whole way meaning we got to check out some climbing at a mini-crag called Charleston. Lovely spot on trad gear over the sea and was a good teaser of what was to come.

We're now in Paynes Ford, the south islands main sport climbing destination and honestly it's pretty neat. An amazing little campsite and only a minutes walk from over 300 routes, all bolted. So far, it's been a good start since I haven't been climbing regularly on super-hard routes recently. 7b/5.12b/27 onsight on 3 bolt micro routes which have always defeated me before means that I'm strong right now but not overly fit. That'll come in time and the mountain of long 7a's here will sort that out pretty quickly. I've my eye on a few of the harder lines here (hardest is about 8a/5.13b/29) so hopefully I can knock one of them off pretty quickly anyway.
It's been awesome having the psyche back too - it doesn't matter a damn how strong/fit you are but if the head just isn't in the game, you're going nowhere fast. I'm not sure what happened (possibly some fun plans for the end of the year that will be arranged soon) but the head is focused and back in the game. Roll on all the routes to be ticked!

Nicolas on 'Dancing on a Skewer' (28)

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