the 2015 bolting policy review
I've been wondering how long it was going to take me to sit down and write this! Partially blamed by having other priorities in the past year, but also partly down to my disappointment and disillusionment at the outcome of the Bolting Policy review.
As always, this is my own opinion and well, I own this website so I can write whatever I want :) Feel free to disagree (and if you either agree or disagree, I'd genuinely love to talk/write it out for other perspectives)!
The topic: Mountaineering Ireland organised a review of the Bolting Policy in late 2015 due to what I can assume to be the up-tick in interest around bolted climbing, not to mention the odd.......unofficial bolts turning up around the country (I've played no part in these* even if, as I'll try to articulate below, I think it's fantastic it's happened). Absolute compliments go to whoever it was in kicking off the idea of a review - I'm guessing it was MI staff Damien O'Sullivan, and others in the climbing community - as the concept of acknowledging this situation has to be commended.
Firstly, I also didn't get to have a friendly social after the event with anyone as, to be honest, I was fairly disillusioned after the event (see notes below), plus I'd a load of other friends back in my house at a party: would have been nice to socialise and hear the very end of the meeting but such is life and I wasn’t in the mood after!
Secondly, I'll throw out the piece of commentary that I'm personally disappointed with saying. Early on in the conversation, the topic led to wide-spread bolting and 'grid bolting'. In feeding into the conversation here, I did a disservice to my opinion of some crags I've seen abroad and I disappointed in myself for expressing it in that manner. Poor form on my part and while I want to put it down to early nerves of giving opinions to many peers, many of whom I still hold in awe, it was and poorly worded (especially considering one of the heaviest grid-bolt style crags is in Kilkenny!) and daft. Apologies if anyone offended.
Thirdly (is that a word?), it was great to see around 40-odd people in attendance from some individuals who are only on the scene relatively recently (past couple of years) as well as stalwarts of the Irish Climbing scene, people in many way I still see as 'superheroes' for their activities. The event host on the day was Peter Eoins with MI input from Damien O'Sullivan and Helen Lawless.
Anyway, the original MI bolting policy document was called out, and various discussions were held around how niche climbing is (and the must be recognised as niche considering how infinitesimal outdoor climbing is in the general populace).
I won't fully transcribe the outcome, however you’ll find it on MI’s website (a report is to appear at some point soon and I believe an updated policy document), and I encourage all to read it. In short, I think it's a nice extension of what went before but it overall is an idea that is trapped in a bubble. Here we go.........
My main notes in a raw dump:
dismissive attitude of some of the experienced climbers towards the enthusiasm of the newer ones. Seriously people, just because you've been doing it longer doesn't mean you know any better. The arrogance, and closed mindedness, was very disappointing to see.
reasons for staying trad:
that's how it's always been. True in one sense, but not so true in another. It's easy to forget that what is now called 'trad' with the various fancy harnesses, shoes and chalk, but more importantly the ultra-advanced protection equipment is a long way from tat-slings and pieces of metal or wood driven into cracks. The game called 'trad' now is something that is zealously guarded by a select few.....
keeping harder walls free of bolts is important to be kept for the future when 'trad' climbers can climb them. Kind of fair enough, but also worth considering that trad is holding itself back by not embracing sports climbing: almost all of the top trad climbers are also phenomenal high-level sport climbers which they use to hone their physical, mental skills in safety.
the fear of all routes being bolted. I'm not going to entertain this: seriously?! Maybe In 5 generations time but it won't happen quickly, mainly as there's also lots of our crags that just wouldn't suit bolts for the valid reason of them being good trad lines, but also because the face into the Atlantic ocean and the metals wouldn't hold up.
there's load of great trad lines but there's also crap trad lines that would be much better as sport routes. (There's also sport routes that I've personally climbed where you could say the opposite). It was interesting to hear a very well known climber make exactly that comment at the Fair Head Meet also (second name ‘Honnold’ which may hint at his credentials).
the idea that trad climbing is more 'ethical' and thus nicer to the rock. I made sure to fight this one on the day, and call it straight: it's no better: I can see it in the 15 years I've been climbing there is huge wear to all trad routes around gear placements and it's only getting worse. Go have a look at a bunch of routes in Alladie, or even more less-trafficked crags: placing gear alone, then pulling it out wears out slots, and all that chalk we all use helps polish up some rock along with our sticky shoes.
In short, the outcome was as expected: Ireland stays mostly as-is. I get some of the sentiment to hold on to history however I’m not so sure this is the right approach in the long term…..
* I should add I did bolt two lines with another individual back sometime around 2005/2006 in the Burren. Two lines above a steely sloping landing, no gear and roughly 7c and 8a+ (from memory). Unsuprisingly, the bolts were removed. Surprisingly, the individual who removed them did a hack job meaning they weren’t removed very well…..